Fluke 107 vs Fluke 101

Specs side by side

Specs checked against manufacturer documentation and official Amazon listings. Desk research, not bench testing. How we research.

Key differences

• →The 107 measures AC and DC current up to 10A; the 101 has no current jack at all.
• →Fluke lists a backlight and data hold for the 107; its India page lists hold as absent on the 101 and no document mentions a backlight.
• →The 101 weighs 160 g to the 107's 200 g and is 12 mm shorter.
• →Voltage, resistance, frequency, duty cycle and diode functions match, with the same published voltage and resistance accuracy.
• →The 107 is on Fluke's US site with a two-year warranty; the 101 is sold in Asia, reaches the US through import listings and carries one year.

What each meter covers

This is desk research: OhmSavvy hasn't bought either meter, so every figure below comes from Fluke's product pages. Where Fluke's documents disagree about the 101, the table says so rather than picking a side.

Fluke 107 vs 101 spec by spec

Lay the two spec sheets side by side and most lines are copies. The measuring core is shared; the 107 simply adds a fused current input and a few conveniences on top of it.

Range by range: resolution and accuracy for every function

The summary table above hides how each function is split into ranges, and the range decides the last digit you see. Below is every range Fluke publishes for both meters, with the resolution (one count) and the tolerance. Where the 101's page gives ranges but no accuracy, the cell says so instead of borrowing the 107's figure.

Turning those percentages into real numbers shows how close the pair sits. A car battery reading 12.60 V lands on the 60.00 V range, so either meter is allowed 0.5% × 12.60 + 3 × 0.01 = ±0.093 V: anything from 12.51 to 12.69 V is in spec. A 4.7 kΩ resistor autoranges to 40.00 kΩ, giving 0.5% × 4.70 + 2 × 0.01 = ±0.044 kΩ, about ±44 Ω. On the 107, a 100 µF electrolytic reads on the 500.0 µF range to ±(5 + 0.5) = ±5.5 µF, and a 1 kHz signal on the 5.000 kHz range to ±4 Hz. The 101 would show the same digits for those last two, but Fluke's page doesn't commit to how close they are.

One footnote applies to both: the published tolerances hold from 18 to 28 °C. Outside that band Fluke adds 0.1 times the spec for every degree. In a 38 °C summer car, 10 degrees over, that is a full extra helping, so the 12.60 V reading's window doubles to ±0.19 V. Both meters are rated to operate from 0 to 40 °C, so a glovebox in a parked car in July can sit outside the working range altogether.

How the 107 reads current, and why the 101 can't

Voltage is measured across a component, with the meter in parallel. Current has to be measured through it: you open the circuit and let the current flow into the meter's A jack, across an internal shunt and out through COM. The 107 has that third jack, protected by an 11 A, 1000 V fast fuse. The 101 has only COM and V/Ω, so there is nowhere for current to go.

The 107's lowest range is 4.000 A with 1 mA steps, so small currents read coarsely. Take a 25 mA microcontroller board: the reading is 0.025 A with a tolerance of 1.5% × 0.025 + 3 × 0.001 = ±0.0034 A, about ±14% of the reading. That is enough to spot a board drawing ten times what it should, not to tune sleep current. For that, see how to measure milliamps with a meter that has a mA range.

A current job, worked on both meters

Picture a 12 V cooler box or a bilge pump that seems to flatten its battery faster than it should. On the 107 you break the positive lead, put the meter in series on the A jack and read the draw directly. Suppose it shows 3.20 A (an illustrative figure, not a test result): that sits on the 4.000 A range, so the window is 1.5% × 3.20 + 3 × 0.001 = ±0.051 A. If the load climbs past 4 A, the 107 moves to its 10.00 A range, where a 6.50 A reading carries ±0.13 A because each count is now 10 mA. AC current is specified from 40 to 200 Hz, which covers 50 and 60 Hz household loads but not 400 Hz aircraft or generator test supplies.

The 101 can still get you an answer, just indirectly. Wire a low-value resistor of known value in series as a shunt, read the DC voltage across it, and divide: I = V / R. With a 0.10 Ω shunt and 2 A flowing you would see 0.200 V, which the 101 resolves to 1 mV on its 6.000 V range, a meter tolerance of about ±0.004 V or ±2% before the resistor's own tolerance is added. The shunt dissipates I² × R = 0.4 W at that current, so it needs a 1 W part, and the method only works for DC. Our guide to testing a shunt resistor covers the setup. If you would do this more than once, the 107's A jack is the simpler tool; for mains appliances, a clamp avoids breaking the circuit at all, as explained in measuring current without breaking the circuit.

Size and pocketability

Both are true pocket meters, but the numbers favor the 101. Multiply Fluke's dimensions and the 107 occupies about 274 cm³ (142 × 69 × 28 mm) against the 101's 228 cm³ (130 × 65 × 27 mm), so the 101 takes up roughly 17% less space and weighs 20% less. The thickness is almost the same, 27 vs 28 mm; the saving is in length and width, which is what decides whether a meter disappears into a shirt pocket or pokes out of it.

The 107 claws back some convenience in the box: Fluke ships it with TL75 test leads and a SmartStrap magnetic lanyard, so it can hang off a steel panel door while you work. Fluke's 101 page lists no box contents. Both are IP40, rated to 2,000 m and drop-tested from 1 m, and the 101 page adds a MIL-PRF-28800F Class 2 vibration rating. Neither ships with a calibration certificate; Fluke's 107 FAQ says so outright.

Buying in the US: availability and import notes

The two meters are aimed at different markets. When we checked on 2026-10-27, Fluke's US address for the 101 opened the general digital-multimeter category page with no 101 on it, while the 107 has a full US product page with specs, documents and a two-year warranty. The 101's specs live on Fluke's regional pages, such as India, which list a one-year warranty.

In practice a US buyer gets a 101 through an import or third-party listing. Before ordering one, check that the listing names the exact model, ask where warranty claims are handled, and remember that a one-year term on an imported unit may mean shipping it abroad. None of that is a problem with the meter; it simply makes the 107 the lower-friction purchase in the US, on top of its extra functions.

Fluke 107 vs 101: which should you buy?

Use cases in practice

Both meters read a PWM fan or servo signal's frequency and duty cycle, both test LEDs and rectifier diodes at 2 V, and both check resistors up to 40 MΩ. On a bench where the power supply already shows current, the 101 gives up very little.

Away from the bench the 107 pulls ahead. Data hold lets you take a reading under a dashboard and look at it afterward, the backlight helps in a dim panel, and the amps jack answers the commonest car question of all: what is draining the battery overnight. Neither meter is True RMS, so on distorted AC waveforms readings can drift; our budget True RMS multimeters list covers that need.

Frequently asked questions