HOW-TO GUIDE

How to Test a Transistor in Circuit With a Multimeter

To test a transistor in circuit with a multimeter, you treat a bipolar transistor as two diodes, check each junction in diode mode with the power off, and then, if the readings are inconclusive, measure the base-emitter and collector-emitter voltages with the circuit running. The catch is that the parts soldered around the transistor can fool the meter, so this guide also shows how to spot a misleading reading and when to lift a leg and test the part on its own.

By the OhmSavvy Research Team ·

AstroAI DM6000AR digital multimeter with test leads, front view
The AstroAI DM6000AR (True RMS, 6,000-count, auto-ranging) is the electronics-hobby pick in our roundup. Most digital meters have a diode-test position; check your manual. See our DM6000AR review.

Before you start

  • Diode and resistance checks are made with the circuit unplugged or the battery removed. A powered circuit can damage the meter on these ranges and gives meaningless readings.
  • Power supplies, amplifiers and anything that runs from mains can hold a dangerous charge in large capacitors after unplugging. Discharge them safely, then confirm with the meter on DC volts.
  • Only make powered voltage checks on low-voltage circuits you understand. Inside mains equipment, many transistors sit on live circuits; leave those to someone trained to work on them.

A bipolar transistor is two diodes back to back

A bipolar junction transistor (BJT) has three legs: base, collector and emitter. Electrically, the base forms a PN junction with the collector and another with the emitter. In an NPN transistor the base is the P side of both junctions, so both diodes point away from the base. In a PNP transistor the base is the N side, so both diodes point towards it. Between collector and emitter there is no single junction to forward-bias, so a healthy transistor reads open both ways on that pair.

That model is all the meter needs. If you are new to diode mode, our guide to testing a diode with a multimeter explains how the meter pushes a small current through a junction and displays the voltage across it.

1Power off and discharge the circuit

Disconnect the power, remove batteries, and wait for or deliberately discharge any large capacitors. Check across the supply rails on DC volts to confirm they read close to zero before switching to diode mode. Leaving a charged capacitor in place does more than risk the meter: its voltage adds to the meter's test voltage and makes the junction readings drift or jump.

2Identify the pins

Read the part number off the case and look up its datasheet. Pin order is not standard: two transistors in the same TO-92 or SOT-23 package can have base, collector and emitter in different positions, and some board footprints are labeled while others are not. The circuit board's silkscreen or a service schematic often marks them too.

Base (B)

The control pin. Both junctions share it.

Collector (C)

Load current enters (NPN) or leaves (PNP) here.

Emitter (E)

Often tied to ground (NPN) or the supply (PNP).

3Check both junctions in diode mode

Turn the dial to diode test. For an NPN transistor, put the red lead on the base and touch the black lead to the emitter, then to the collector. Both should show a forward voltage, commonly in the region of 0.5 to 0.8 V for a silicon small-signal part. Swap the leads and both should read OL. Finally, check collector to emitter in both directions: it should read OL. For PNP, everything is reversed: the black lead goes on the base for the forward readings.

Red leadBlack leadNPN (healthy)PNP (healthy)
BaseEmitter≈ 0.5–0.8 VOL
BaseCollector≈ 0.5–0.8 VOL
EmitterBaseOL≈ 0.5–0.8 V
CollectorBaseOL≈ 0.5–0.8 V
CollectorEmitterOLOL
EmitterCollectorOLOL
0.652VDiode, B to E
A typical healthy base-emitter reading in diode mode: 0.652 V, inside the usual 0.5 to 0.8 V band. The base-collector junction often reads a little lower. Exact values depend on the transistor and the meter's test current, so compare with the datasheet or a known-good part.

A reading near 0 V on any pair, in both directions, means a shorted junction or a short across it. OL in both directions on a base junction means it is open. Power transistors and Darlington transistors read differently: a Darlington has two junctions in series from base to emitter, so it typically reads higher, and many contain internal resistors and a diode across collector and emitter. Check the datasheet's internal diagram before calling one faulty.

Look at the part as well as the numbers. Transistors that have failed from overheating or a surge often show it: a cracked or bulging case, a scorch mark on the board, or discolored solder around the legs. In power stages, a common failure is a collector-emitter short. When you find one, test the parts around it before fitting a replacement. A shorted transistor can take its base resistor, driver stage or emitter resistor with it, and a new transistor dropped into the same fault may fail the moment power returns. Check the load it switches too: a relay coil or motor with shorted windings can be what overloaded the transistor in the first place.

How parallel components distort in-circuit readings

In circuit, the meter's test current does not only flow through the transistor. Every part connected between the same two pins forms another path, and the meter displays the combined result. That is why an in-circuit test can make a good transistor look bad, and occasionally make a bad one look acceptable. The same principle applies to any resistance reading, as our guide to measuring resistance in a parallel circuit explains.

Part across the pinsWhat the meter showsHow to read it
Low-value resistor across B-EForward reading lower than normal; reverse may not read OLCan be normal; compare with the schematic
Coil, transformer winding or motor across C-ENear 0 V both ways, looks shortedLift a leg before condemning the part
Capacitor across a junctionReading climbs, then settles or goes OLWait for it to settle; discharge first
Protection diode across C-EOne forward reading on C-ENormal in relay and motor drivers
Second transistor in parallelFault could be either partLift one to isolate it

The best reference in circuit is an identical working circuit. Stereo amplifiers, multi-channel drivers and boards with repeated sections let you test the same transistor position on the good channel and compare. Readings that match closely suggest the parts around both transistors are doing the same thing; a clear difference points to the faulty side.

It also helps to know what diode mode can see. The meter drives a small test current from an open-circuit voltage of a few volts, which varies by model. A parallel resistor of a few hundred ohms takes a large share of that current and drags the reading down, while one of many kilohms usually makes little difference to a forward reading. If the schematic shows a resistor across the junction, a lower reading may be exactly what a good transistor should give in that position.

4Measure Vbe and Vce with the circuit powered

When the power-off checks are clouded by parallel parts, voltage measurements on a running low-voltage circuit can settle the question, because they show what the transistor is actually doing. Switch to DC volts, put the black lead on the emitter and the red lead on the base for Vbe, then on the collector for Vce. Clip the black lead on so a slipping probe cannot short adjacent pins. The table assumes a silicon NPN transistor used as a switch with its emitter at ground; the figures are typical, so compare with the datasheet and the circuit's design.

VbeVceLikely meaning
≈ 0.6–0.75 VLow, often ≈ 0.1–0.3 VSwitched fully on (saturated): working
≈ 0 V≈ supply voltageOff, no base drive: working if it should be off
≈ 0.6–0.75 V≈ supply voltageDriven but not conducting: suspect an open C-E path
≈ 0 V≈ 0 VOn with no drive: suspect a C-E short, or check the load
Well above 1 V (not a Darlington)AnyJunction not clamping: suspect an open B-E junction
Vce, transistor off
≈ 12 V
Vbe, driven on
≈ 0.7 V
Vce, saturated
≈ 0.2 V
Typical voltages on an NPN switching transistor in a 12 V circuit: Vce reads about 12 V when the transistor is off and about 0.2 V when it is saturated, while Vbe sits near 0.7 V whenever it is driven on. Actual values vary with the part and the current it carries.

In amplifier stages the transistor is biased partly on, so Vce sits somewhere between the rails rather than at either end. There the useful comparison is with the voltages printed on a service schematic, or measured on a working channel.

When to lift a leg or remove the transistor

Lift a leg when a junction reads shorted or abnormally low and the circuit has parts that could explain it, when the powered checks disagree with the diode checks, or when you are about to replace the part anyway. Desolder one leg, usually the base, and bend it clear of its pad; that isolates both junctions from the drive circuit. If you remove the part completely, our guides to removing solder from a circuit board and clearing a plated through-hole help you do it without lifting pads.

  1. 01

    Power off

    Discharge, confirm 0 V

  2. 02

    Diode checks

    B-E, B-C, C-E both ways

  3. 03

    Powered checks

    Vbe and Vce, low voltage only

  4. 04

    Lift a leg

    Usually the base

  5. 05

    Retest alone

    Diode mode out of circuit

The in-circuit workflow: start with the power off, move to powered checks only when parallel parts make the junction readings unclear, and lift a leg before you condemn a transistor.

Replace like for like

If the transistor is faulty, fit the same part number or a substitute whose datasheet matches its voltage, current, power and gain ratings, and its pin order. A substitute with the same package but a different pinout will fail as soon as power is applied.

MOSFETs are a different test

Everything above applies to bipolar transistors. A MOSFET has a gate, drain and source; its gate is insulated, so there is no base junction to measure, and most power MOSFETs have a body diode between source and drain. Testing one means checking that body diode and using the meter's test voltage to charge the gate and switch it on. Our step-by-step guide covers it: how to test a MOSFET with a digital multimeter. If you are unsure which type you have, the datasheet for the part number settles it.

Which meter to use for transistor testing

A diode-test position and a reasonably fast, readable display are what matter here; most digital meters have both. A higher count helps you see small differences between a good and a suspect junction. The meters below are from our best multimeters roundup, and how to use a multimeter covers the dial and jacks if you are starting out.

Meters in our reviews

AstroAI DM6000AR digital multimeter
AstroAI DM6000AR

True RMS, 6,000-count, auto-ranging. Our pick for microcontroller and electronics projects.

UNI-T UT139C digital multimeter
UNI-T UT139C

True RMS and auto-ranging with a 6,000-count display and a CAT III 600V rating, at a budget price.

Fluke 115 digital multimeter
Fluke 115

True RMS, auto-ranging, CAT III 600V. Fluke reliability, with capacitance and frequency measurement.

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Frequently asked questions

Can a transistor test good with a multimeter and still be faulty?

Yes. Diode mode only checks the junctions at the meter's small test current. A transistor can pass that test and still have low gain, leak at operating voltage, or fail only when it heats up. If the junctions look fine but the circuit still misbehaves, compare its powered voltages with a working circuit or substitute a known-good part.

Can I use the hFE socket on my meter to test a transistor?

Only out of circuit, and only on meters that have one. The socket measures current gain at a single low test current, so it confirms the part works and is the right type, but the figure can differ from the gain in your circuit. Gain also varies widely between transistors of the same part number, so treat it as a rough check.

Which leg of a transistor should I lift to test it in circuit?

Lifting the base is usually enough, because it disconnects both junctions from the parts that drive the base. If the collector-emitter path still reads low with the base lifted, something else is connected across collector and emitter, and you need to lift a second leg or remove the transistor completely to be sure.

How do I tell if a transistor is NPN or PNP with a multimeter?

Find the pin that conducts to both other pins in diode mode; that is the base. If the readings appear with the red lead on the base, it is NPN. If they appear with the black lead on the base, it is PNP. Confirm the result against the datasheet, because the pin order varies between packages and manufacturers.

Can I test a transistor with a meter that has no diode mode?

Usually, with care. Use a resistance range and look for the same pattern as the diode test: low in one direction across each junction, high in the other, and high both ways from collector to emitter. Some digital meters apply too little voltage on their low ohms ranges to forward-bias a silicon junction, so try a higher range and compare against a known-good part rather than trusting absolute numbers.

Where to go next

More multimeter guides and reviews