COMPARISON · MULTIMETERS

Fluke 114 vs Fluke 175: Which Is Better for Everyday Electrical Work?

If your everyday electrical work includes anything beyond checking for voltage, the Fluke 175 is the better buy: it adds current to 10 A, capacitance, frequency and diode test, plus CAT IV 600V and a lifetime warranty. The Fluke 114 is the better pick only for someone who mostly proves circuits live or dead, because it does that job with a low-impedance AutoVolt input and a backlight, neither of which the 175 has. This Fluke 114 vs 175 comparison weighs a focused voltage tester against a general-purpose meter, task by task.

By the OhmSavvy Research Team ·

Disclosure: OhmSavvy earns a commission from qualifying Amazon purchases made through these links, at no extra cost to you. How we're funded.

Fluke 114 True RMS electrician's multimeter with AUTO-V LoZ position, front view
Best Go/No-Go Electrician Meter

Fluke 114

4.5★★★★★

A True RMS voltage-and-continuity meter with AutoVolt LoZ, made for quick go/no-go checks on 600 V circuits.

Fluke 175 True RMS multimeter with test leads, front view
Best No-Frills Fluke 170 Series

Fluke 175

4.5★★★★★

The entry 170-series Fluke: True RMS volts and amps to 10 A, CAT IV 600V and a lifetime warranty, minus the 177's backlight.

Specs side by side

Fluke 114Fluke 175
Rating4.5★★★★★4.5★★★★★
AccuracyTrue RMS, ±(0.5% + 2) DC VTrue RMS, ±(0.15% + 2) DC V
Safety ratingCAT III 600VCAT III 1000V / CAT IV 600V
Auto-rangingYes (manual override)Yes (manual override)
Best forElectrician go/no-go voltage checksGeneral electrical and electronic repair
CurrentNone (COM and + jacks only)60 mA, 400 mA, 6 A, 10 A (20 A for 30 s)
LoZ / AutoVoltYes, about 3 kΩ, auto AC/DCNot listed
Maximum voltage600 V1000 V
Safety ratingCAT III 600VCAT III 1000V / CAT IV 600V
DC volts accuracy±(0.5% + 2)±(0.15% + 2)
AC volts, True RMS±(1.0% + 3), 45 to 500 Hz±(1.0% + 3), 45 to 500 Hz
ResistanceTo 40 MΩTo 50 MΩ
Continuity beeperOn below 20 ΩOn below 25 Ω, catches 250 µs opens
Capacitance / frequency / diodeNot listed10,000 µF / 99.99 kHz / 2.400 V
Display6,000 counts, 33-segment bar graph, backlight6,000 counts, 33-segment bar graph, no backlight
RecordingMin/Max/Average with elapsed timeHold, Auto Hold, Min/Max-average
Battery9 V, about 400 h9 V, about 200 h
Size / weight167 × 84 × 46 mm, 550 g (Amazon: 0.51 kg)43 × 90 × 185 mm, 420 g
Warranty3 yearsLifetime

Specs checked against manufacturer documentation and official Amazon listings. Desk research, not bench testing. How we research.

Key differences

  • →The 175 measures current on four ranges from 60 mA to 10 A; the 114 has only two input jacks and no current function in Fluke's spec table.
  • →The 114 has a low-impedance AutoVolt position that picks AC or DC by itself; Fluke lists no LoZ mode for the 175.
  • →Unusually for the pair, the cheaper-looking 114 has the backlight. Fluke reserves it for the 177 and 179 in the 170 series, so the 175 has none.
  • →The 175 adds capacitance to 10,000 µF, frequency and a diode test, none of which the 114 lists.
  • →The 175 is rated CAT IV 600V and CAT III 1000V and reads to 1000 V; the 114 is CAT III 600V.
  • →AC volts accuracy is identical at ±(1.0% + 3); for DC volts the 175's ±(0.15% + 2) beats the 114's ±(0.5% + 2).
  • →The 114 gets about 400 h from a 9 V cell against about 200 h; the 175 is lighter at 420 g and carries a lifetime warranty rather than three years.

A tester and a meter: what each one is for

These two meters come from different Fluke lines with different jobs in mind. The 114 belongs to the 110 series and is effectively a precise voltage-and-continuity tester: one rotary position reads either AC or DC on a low-impedance input, and there is nothing on the dial you can set wrongly while reaching into a box. The 175 is the entry model of the 170 series, a general troubleshooting meter that measures most of what an electrical or electronics job throws at it. Neither one is owner-tested by us; everything here comes from Fluke's published specs.

Everyday taskFluke 114Fluke 175
Is this receptacle or breaker live?Yes, AutoVoltYes, V AC
Is that 40 V real or induced?Yes, LoZ drains itNo LoZ listed
Continuity on a cable runYesYes, catches 250 µs breaks
How many amps is this circuit drawing?NoYes, in series to 10 A
Standby or control current in mANoYes, 0.01 mA steps
Is the fan or motor capacitor good?Not listedYes, to 10,000 µF
Is the generator output at 60 Hz?Not listedYes, frequency
Checking a rectifier or LEDNot listedYes, diode test

Count the rows and the 175 covers all eight while the 114 covers three. For many readers that settles it. The 114's case rests on doing those three things faster and with less chance of a wrong reading.

Ghost voltage: the 114's real advantage

A conductor that is switched off but runs beside a live one in the same conduit or cable can show tens of volts on a high-impedance meter, because the meter barely loads the tiny coupled current. Fluke specs the normal voltage input on the 110 series above 10 MΩ for DC, and it lists no low-impedance mode for the 175 at all. On the 114, the AUTO-V LoZ position drops the input to about 3 kΩ, which drains that coupled charge away. The test is quick:

  1. 01

    Suspicious reading

    e.g. 35 V on a dead switch leg

  2. 02

    Read it again on LoZ

    114 only: about 3 kΩ input

  3. 03

    Falls toward zero

    Induced: not a supply

  4. 04

    Stays near 120 V

    Real feed: trace the source

With a 175 you lose that shortcut. You can still reason it out, for instance by checking whether the reading changes when you open the breaker you believe feeds the circuit, but it takes longer and relies on judgment. The LoZ load has its own catch: Fluke warns on its 113 page that a low-impedance measurement between a hot conductor and ground can trip a GFCI or RCD, and the same physics applies to the 114. Our article on voltage on a disconnected circuit goes deeper into where phantom readings come from.

Fluke 114 vs 175 accuracy on familiar voltages

For AC line voltage the two are identical: ±(1.0% + 3) True RMS from 45 to 500 Hz. At 120.0 V on the 600.0 V range that works out to 1.2 V plus 3 counts of 0.1 V, about ±1.5 V on either meter. On the 114's LoZ position the tolerance widens to ±(2.0% + 3), roughly ±2.7 V at 120 V, which is fine for a live/dead decision but not for logging supply quality.

114 at 12.60 V
±83 mV
175 at 12.60 V
±39 mV
114 at 24.00 V
±140 mV
175 at 24.00 V
±56 mV
Worst-case DC volts error on two common battery voltages, from Fluke's best-accuracy lines. Illustrative arithmetic, not measurements.

The arithmetic for DC: both read 12.60 V on a 60.00 V range where one count is 10 mV. The 114 allows 0.5% of 12.60 V (63 mV) plus 20 mV, so ±83 mV. The 175 allows 0.15% (about 19 mV) plus 20 mV, so ±39 mV. The gap only matters when you are judging a battery's state of charge or a DC control supply against a tight limit. Our Fluke 175 vs 177 page shows how much further the 177's 0.09% goes.

Current: capability against a classic mistake

The 175 measures current in series on four ranges: 60.00 mA with 0.01 mA steps, 400.0 mA, 6.000 A and 10.00 A, with up to 20 A tolerated for 30 seconds. Fluke protects the inputs with 440 mA and 11 A fuses rated 1000 V. That opens up jobs the 114 can't touch, from a vehicle's parasitic draw in milliamps to the running current of a bath fan or a small pump. Our guide to measuring milliamps covers the hookup.

The 114's lack of current jacks is also a safety feature. A classic way to damage a meter is to leave a lead in the A jack and then touch it across a live receptacle, which puts the fuse straight across the supply. With only COM and + on the 114 that mistake is impossible. The 175's high-energy fuses are designed to clear such a fault, but the habit of checking lead position is on you. Fluke's 114 overview does mention "current", which conflicts with its own spec table and the two-jack housing; we follow the spec table.

Light, battery and warranty in daily use

One odd quirk of this pairing is that the narrower meter has the better display hardware. The 114 has a white LED backlight; Fluke's 170 Series datasheet lists the backlight on the 177 and 179 only, and the Amazon photo of the 175 shows no backlight key. In a dark panel or a crawl space that means a flashlight or headlamp for the 175. Both share a 6,000-count reading with a 33-segment bar graph, which Fluke updates at 32 times a second on the 114 and 40 on the 175.

114 battery
~400 h
175 battery
~200 h
Rated life on one 9 V battery, per Fluke.

The 114 runs about twice as long per battery. The 175 counters with a lifetime warranty against three years, and it is the lighter meter at 420 g against 550 g, though it is taller at 185 mm.

The middle ground

If you like the 114's AutoVolt but need amps, the Fluke 117 adds 6 A and 10 A ranges, capacitance and non-contact VoltAlert to the 114's feature set; see Fluke 114 vs 117. If you want the 175's breadth with a backlight, step up to the 177.

Which should you buy?

Who you areBetter fitReason
Electrician on new construction, rough-in and trimFluke 114Fast live/dead checks with LoZ
Service electrician chasing faultsFluke 175Amps and capacitance on the same meter
Work at meter bases or service entrancesFluke 175CAT IV 600V vs CAT III 600V
Maintenance tech on motors, controls, 480 V gearFluke 1751000 V, mA to 10 A, frequency
Homeowner checking outlets and switchesFluke 114Hard to misuse, backlight, long battery life
Electronics and appliance repairFluke 175Diode test, capacitance, frequency
Long old buildings with shared conduitsFluke 114AutoVolt sorts induced voltage

Skip the 114 if you can picture yourself needing an amp reading in the next year; you would end up buying a second meter. Skip the 175 if you mostly work in poor light or keep getting fooled by phantom voltages, or if you want the lowest-effort tool for someone who isn't a trained tech. For more options, see best multimeter for electricians and Fluke 175 vs Fluke 115.

Source notes and conflicts

Two places where Fluke's documents disagree. On the 114, the product overview mentions current and a temperature footnote appears, yet the spec table lists neither function and Amazon's weight figure is 0.51 kg against Fluke's 550 g. On the 175, the 170 Series datasheet's range table gives frequency to 99.99 kHz while its summary table says 50 kHz, and its top capacitance range is specified at 10% typical rather than the 1.2% that applies up to 1,000 µF.

Working on live mains

Both meters are for qualified work on energized circuits. Stay within each rating: CAT III 600V for the 114, CAT IV 600V or CAT III 1000V for the 175. Prove the meter on a known live source before and after any dead test, check that the leads are in the voltage jacks before touching a live part, and leave service drops and meter bases to a licensed electrician or your utility.

Choose the Fluke 114 if…

  • ✓Your day is mostly live/dead checks on 120 V and 240 V circuits
  • ✓You want a LoZ input to rule out ghost voltage on long cable runs
  • ✓You work in dim panels and attics and want a lit display

Choose the Fluke 175 if…

  • ✓You need amps, milliamps, capacitance or frequency at least now and then
  • ✓You work at service entrances or on circuits up to 1000 V
  • ✓You want a lifetime warranty and a lighter 420 g meter

The bottom line

Buy the Fluke 175 if everyday electrical work for you means troubleshooting: it adds current to 10 A, capacitance, frequency and diode test, CAT IV 600V and a lifetime warranty, at the cost of a backlight and a LoZ mode. Buy the Fluke 114 if you mainly prove circuits live or dead and want that done quickly in dim spaces, with AutoVolt to filter out induced voltage.

Frequently asked questions

Can the Fluke 114 measure amps?+

No. Fluke's spec table for the 114 lists no current ranges, and the meter has only COM and + jacks, even though one line in Fluke's product overview mentions current. For amps you need a meter such as the Fluke 175, 115 or 117, or a clamp meter that reads current without breaking the circuit.

Does the Fluke 175 have a backlight?+

No. Fluke's 170 Series detailed specifications list the backlight on the 177 and 179 only, and the official Amazon photo of the 175 shows no backlight button. The 175 shares their 6,000-count display and 33-segment bar graph. The Fluke 114, by contrast, has a white LED backlight.

Does the Fluke 175 have a LoZ or AutoVolt mode?+

Fluke doesn't list one, so its standard voltage function can show induced voltage on open or switched-off conductors, as any ordinary input can. If ghost readings are a regular problem in your work, the 114, 116 and 117 all have the AutoVolt low-impedance position, at about 3 kΩ.

Is the Fluke 114 or 175 more accurate?+

For AC volts they are the same, ±(1.0% + 3) True RMS. For DC volts the 175 is tighter at ±(0.15% + 2) against ±(0.5% + 2), which on a 12.60 V battery is about ±39 mV versus ±83 mV. Both use 6,000-count displays, so resolution on each range is the same.

Which Fluke is safer near a service panel, the 114 or 175?+

The 175 carries the higher rating, CAT IV 600V and CAT III 1000V, so it is rated for service-entrance work as well as branch circuits. The 114 is CAT III 600V, which covers panels and receptacles inside a building. The 114 can't be misused on a current jack, though, because it doesn't have one.

Why does the Fluke 114 have a longer battery life?+

Fluke rates the 114 at about 400 hours on a 9 V battery, against about 200 hours for the 175. Fluke doesn't explain the difference, so we won't guess at the cause. In practice it means fewer battery swaps on the 114, even if you use its backlight regularly.

Related

More multimeter guides and reviews